Putting your motorcycle away for winter is one of those tasks that takes about an hour to do right and saves you hours of frustration in the spring. Skip the preparation and you are likely to find a dead battery, stale fuel that gums up the carburetor or injectors, flat-spotted tires, and corrosion in places that were perfectly clean when you last rode.
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Winter Motorcycle Storage Checklist
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This checklist covers everything you need to do before the bike sits for an extended period, whether that is three months or six.
The specifics vary slightly depending on your bike, but the principles apply to every motorcycle.
Fuel System
Gasoline starts degrading within about 30 days, and modern ethanol-blended fuel is worse because ethanol absorbs moisture from the air. After a few months, untreated fuel can leave varnish deposits in your fuel system that clog jets, injectors, and fuel lines.
Add fuel stabilizer to your tank following the dosage on the bottle.
Then ride the bike for 10 to 15 minutes to circulate the treated fuel through the entire system including the fuel lines, fuel pump, and injectors or carburetor. Fill the tank as close to full as practical. A full tank minimizes the air space where condensation can form.
If your bike has a carburetor with a drain screw, some riders prefer to drain the float bowls after running stabilized fuel through.
This removes the small amount of fuel that sits in the carburetor and prevents any possibility of varnish deposits. For fuel-injected bikes, running stabilized fuel through the system is sufficient.
Oil Change
Change the oil and filter before storage, not after. Used engine oil contains acids and combustion byproducts that can corrode internal engine surfaces if they sit for months.
Fresh oil provides a clean protective film on all internal components during the storage period.
Run the engine for a few minutes after the oil change to circulate the fresh oil through the entire system. This coats bearings, cylinder walls, and valve train components with clean oil before the bike sits idle.
Battery
A motorcycle battery that sits unused for months will self-discharge and may sulfate permanently, especially in cold temperatures. You have two options: remove the battery and store it indoors, or leave it on the bike and connect a battery tender.
A battery tender (also called a smart charger or maintainer) monitors the battery voltage and provides a small trickle charge as needed to keep it at full capacity.
Plug it in, connect the leads to the battery terminals, and leave it until spring. This is the easiest and most reliable approach. A decent tender costs $25 to $40 and will last for years.
If you remove the battery, store it in a cool, dry place indoors and connect the tender there. Do not store batteries on concrete floors in unheated garages, despite the old myth. Modern batteries are fine on concrete, but extreme cold reduces their lifespan regardless of surface.
Tires
Tires develop flat spots when they sit in one position under the weight of the bike for months.
The rubber deforms slightly where it contacts the ground, and in cold temperatures, that deformation can become semi-permanent.
The best prevention is to get the tires off the ground entirely using a front and rear stand. If you only have one stand, prioritize the rear and place a block under the frame or engine to take weight off the front tire. If you do not have stands, inflate the tires to the maximum pressure listed on the tire sidewall (not the recommended riding pressure, the maximum).
This minimizes the contact patch and reduces flat spotting.
Move the bike slightly every few weeks if it is sitting on the tires. Even rolling it forward or backward a few inches changes the contact point and distributes the load.
Cleaning and Corrosion Prevention
Wash the bike thoroughly before storage. Road grime, bug residue, and brake dust all contain chemicals that corrode paint, chrome, and aluminum if left sitting for months.
Dry the bike completely after washing to prevent water spots and trapped moisture.
Apply a light coat of wax to painted surfaces. Spray exposed metal surfaces like fork tubes, handlebar clamps, and exhaust pipes with a corrosion inhibitor or a light film of WD-40. Lube the chain one final time after cleaning (for chain-driven bikes). These steps create a protective barrier that keeps moisture and oxidation at bay.
Coolant
If your bike is liquid-cooled, check the coolant level and its freeze protection rating.
Most motorcycle coolant is pre-mixed or mixed at a 50/50 ratio with distilled water, which protects down to about minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit. If your storage area gets colder than that, or if the coolant is more than two years old, flush and replace it.
Exhaust and Airbox
Mice and other rodents love to nest in motorcycle exhaust pipes and airboxes during winter. Stuff a clean rag or a piece of steel wool into each exhaust outlet and cover the air intake.
Just make sure to remove them before you start the bike in spring. A bright piece of tape or a note on the handlebars helps you remember.
Cover and Location
A breathable motorcycle cover keeps dust off the bike while allowing moisture to escape. Avoid non-breathable tarps, which trap moisture underneath and accelerate corrosion. If you store the bike in a garage with temperature swings, a breathable cover is especially important because condensation forms more readily in fluctuating temperatures.
Indoor storage is always better than outdoor storage.
If indoor space is not available, invest in a heavy-duty weatherproof motorcycle cover and park the bike on a piece of plywood or carpet to insulate the tires from cold concrete.
Spring Startup
When you are ready to ride again, reverse the process. Remove the exhaust and airbox plugs. Check tire pressures and reduce them to the recommended riding pressure if you inflated them to maximum for storage.
Check all fluid levels. Inspect the chain tension and lube it. Let the engine warm up fully before riding. Take it easy for the first ride while the tires warm up and you get your riding reflexes back.